Author: Tanay Pahare

  • Watchmakers Beyond Patek, Rolex & AP

    Watchmakers Beyond Patek, Rolex & AP

    A Look Past the Usual Icons

    Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Audemars Piguet dominate the modern imagination. These maisons built reputations that echo far beyond watch collecting. Yet a quieter and more intricate world exists past these giants.

    It is a world defined by invention, obsessive craft, unusual mechanical ideas, and the kind of focus that can only come from creators who refuse to scale beyond what their hands can control. This is where connoisseurs drift when they want substance rather than status alone


    F. P. Journe and the Philosophy of Originality

    François Paul Journe founded his company with a personal promise printed on every dial: made according to an ideal. His approach blends classical inspiration with mechanical ideas drawn from the fringes of traditional engineering.

    Signature Creations

    Chronometre a Resonance
    Two balances that influence one another through natural resonance, producing a form of timekeeping that is as rare as it is elegant.

    Tourbillon Souverain
    A tourbillon paired with a constant force system that stabilizes torque for improved precision.

    Elegante Collection
    A quartz movement designed with the seriousness of a mechanical caliber, capable of entering a rest state to preserve energy.

    Expected Retail Range

    Time only models begin around thirty thousand dollars.
    Complications range widely from eighty thousand dollars upward.
    Tourbillons and resonance pieces regularly exceed two hundred thousand dollars.

    A close-up view of an F.P. Journe wristwatch
    Rama, CC BY-SA 2.0 FR https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/fr/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons

    Breguet and the Birth of Modern Horology

    Founded in seventeen seventy five, Breguet is the cradle of many concepts that now seem foundational. The tourbillon, the use of engine turned surfaces, and the open tipped hands the world still associates with the brand all began here.

    Today Breguet’s work remains quietly majestic. These are pieces for collectors who enjoy the calm of classical design and deep finishing.

    Signature Creations

    Classique Collection
    A study in proportion, featuring enamel dials, thin cases, and refined movements.

    Tradition 7047
    A dramatic fusion of tourbillon and fusee and chain technology that channels eighteenth century theory into a modern stage piece.

    Marine Collection
    Evokes a long history of maritime timekeeping with a contemporary voice.

    Expected Retail Range

    Classique models begin around eighteen thousand dollars.
    High complications extend from sixty thousand dollars to above two hundred thousand dollars.

    Close-up of a Breguet watch featuring a decorative silver dial with multiple subdials, Roman numerals, and a brown leather strap.
    Rama, CC BY-SA 2.0 FR https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/fr/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons

    A. Lange & Söhne and the Saxon Ideal

    After decades of silence during the twentieth century, A. Lange & Söhne returned in nineteen ninety four with a clear mission: to reclaim German precision and present it in an uncompromising modern form.

    Its movements are architectural. Its finishing is disciplined. And its design language is both severe and poetic.

    Signature Creations

    Lange One
    Often called the most successful asymmetrical design in modern watchmaking, built on a strict mathematical grid.

    Datograph Up Down
    A chronograph of such balance and refinement that it is often considered the benchmark of the entire category.

    Zeitwerk
    A mechanical jumping time display powered by a complex constant force mechanism.

    Expected Retail Range

    Many three hand models begin near thirty thousand dollars.
    Datograph and Zeitwerk pieces often range between eighty thousand and one hundred fifty thousand dollars.

    A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Daymatic
    A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Daymatic © A. Lange & Söhne

    Vacheron Constantin and the Power of Continuity

    Vacheron Constantin has been crafting watches since seventeen fifty five, making it one of the oldest continuously operating maisons in existence. Its work is refined, serene, and deeply tied to the traditions of Geneva.

    Signature Creations

    Patrimony Collection
    Pure minimalism with gentle curves and movements finished to Geneva Seal standards.

    Overseas Collection
    A versatile sports watch with a bracelet known for its comfort and strong technical foundation.

    Historique American 1921
    A driver’s watch with a rotated dial that channels early twentieth century charm.

    Expected Retail Range

    Dress models begin near twenty thousand dollars.
    Complications extend from fifty thousand dollars to two hundred thousand dollars and beyond.

    Vacheron Constantin Overseas Turbillon
    Vacheron Constantin Overseas Turbillon © Vacheron Constantin

    Parmigiani Fleurier and the Cult of Proportion

    Michel Parmigiani began as a restorer of historical pieces, and that background echoes through his designs. Every curve and bevel feels considered. Nothing is loud, yet everything is intentional.

    Signature Creations

    Tonda PF Micro Rotor
    Understated elegance in an ultra thin form, with a warm presence on the wrist.

    Toric Chronograph
    Inspired by classical architectural geometry.

    Kalpa Collection
    A distinctive curved case with in house calibers.

    Expected Retail Range

    Most Tonda PF models fall between twenty thousand and thirty five thousand dollars. Complications stretch upward from fifty thousand dollars.

    Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph
    Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph © Parmigiani Fleurier

    The Independent Atelier Landscape

    Beyond the heritage maisons is a constellation of independent creators who treat watchmaking as a calling rather than an industry. Their production numbers are often in the dozens rather than thousands.

    Notable Names

    Laurent Ferrier
    Soft lines, natural escapement technology, and serene finishing.

    Voutilainen
    Hand worked dials, vivid color, and extraordinary movement decoration.

    H. Moser and Cie
    Minimalist design blended with surprising technical depth and a willingness to question convention.

    Typical Retail Range

    Most independents begin around thirty thousand dollars and ascend rapidly depending on complications and rarity.

    H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Moon Concept Meteorite
    H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Moon Concept Meteorite, source: MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG

    Why Explore Beyond the Familiar

    The maisons beyond Patek, Rolex, and AP remind us that watchmaking is not only about prestige. It is about curiosity, courage, and devotion to craft.

    Collectors who follow these paths discover timepieces that reflect more than success. They reflect taste, patience, and a genuine connection to the art.


  • The Rise of Neo-Vintage Watches

    The Rise of Neo-Vintage Watches

    The Soul in Steel: Why Neo-Vintage Matters

    There was a time when the word vintage meant dusty cases and questionable lume. Today, it’s a badge of honor. But lately, a subtler movement has emerged — neo-vintage watches, those quiet marvels from the 1980s to early 2000s that bridge the gap between the purely mechanical past and the modern, over-engineered present.

    They carry the quirks of analog watchmaking yet the dependability of sapphire crystals and better water resistance. Collectors love them because they represent the last era before luxury watches became… luxury products.

    Hugh Nelson, CC BY 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    The Appeal of “Just Old Enough”

    Ask any seasoned collector why neo-vintage sings, and they’ll talk about character. These pieces often have:

    • Early automatic chronometer movements without silicon parts.
    • Slimmer cases, before the “wrist tank” era.
    • Aging tritium lume that tells time as much as it tells stories.
    • Honest pricing—many remain attainable for enthusiasts priced out of modern hype pieces.

    Neo-vintage sits in the Goldilocks zone: old enough to have patina, new enough to wear daily.


    Examples That Define the Era

    Here are a few models driving the trend:

    WatchEraMovementWhy It’s Hot
    Rolex Explorer II 16550/165701990sCal. 3185Pre-ceramic purity, understated tool watch feel
    Omega Speedmaster “Reduced”1990sCal. 1140Smaller case, mechanical charm
    Grand Seiko 9S SeriesLate 1990s9S55Japan’s quiet precision rebirth
    Zenith El Primero Rainbow1990s400 El PrimeroColor, charisma, and pedigree
    Rolex Explorer ref 16550, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
    Kjellnz, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
    Hiroaki Kikuchi, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Why Collectors Are Letting the Hype Pass By

    The past few years have seen Instagram-driven hype cycles that make prices swing like pendulums. But a growing crowd of enthusiasts is turning inward — toward pieces that feel like their own. Neo-vintage scratches that itch.

    They reward study, patience, and taste rather than hype-chasing. As one collector put it, “It’s the difference between wearing a story and wearing a billboard.”


    Where This Is Headed

    Brands have noticed. You can see neo-vintage DNA in modern designs: the Longines Heritage line, Tudor’s Black Bay 54, and TAG Heuer’s Carrera reissues. Even independents like Baltic and Serica are riffing on late-century aesthetics with 21st-century specs.

    If history repeats, we’re witnessing the “neo-vintage bubble” forming—only this one’s built on genuine affection, not speculation.

  • Staying Up-to-Date on Watches in 2025

    Staying Up-to-Date on Watches in 2025

    In horology, things move fast. New releases drop every week, auction results shake up the market, and brands keep reinventing how they connect with enthusiasts. If you want to stay current, you need a set of trusted sources. Here are the platforms I use to keep myself plugged into the watch world.


    Websites Worth Bookmarking

    • Hodinkee – Probably the most recognizable watch media outlet. Best for deep-dive reviews, industry news, and high-quality photography. Great if you want context and storytelling.
    • Fratello Watches – Known for strong editorial opinions and their “Speedy Tuesday” coverage of Omega. Good for thoughtful commentary and in-depth comparisons.
    • Monochrome Watches – Technical breakdowns and detailed reviews, often covering independent and high-horology brands.
    • WatchTime – Traditional magazine style with serious reviews and coverage of the watch fair circuit.
    • Time+Tide – Australia-based, global in reach. Good mix of video, written reviews, and quick news hits.

    YouTube Channels to Follow

    • Watchfinder & Co. – Benchmark channel for visual reviews. Their macro photography is unmatched, making movements and finishing details easy to appreciate.
    • Teddy Baldassarre – Balanced mix of reviews, buying guides, and education on movements and brands.
    • The Urban Gentry – Personal, story-driven approach. Strong on watch history and collecting philosophy.
    • Theo & Harris – Lively, opinionated commentary. Good for learning the cultural side of watches.
    • Just One More Watch – Accessible microbrand reviews and budget-friendly recommendations.

    Social Media Accounts


    Final Thoughts

    Staying updated on watches doesn’t mean chasing every hype drop. It’s about curating sources that give you perspective, whether you’re into Rolex auctions, microbrand discoveries, or movement tech. Pick a few outlets that resonate with your style and you’ll always be in sync with the horological conversation.


  • Watches as a Lifelong Hobby

    A Hobby That Ticks Beyond Time

    Watches are deceptively simple objects. At first glance, they’re just machines that tell time. But anyone who has wound a movement, felt the weight of steel on the wrist, or seen lume glowing in the dark knows that a watch is far more than a utility. It’s history on your wrist, engineering distilled into art, and—most importantly—a conversation starter that can connect you with people in surprising ways.

    Photo by EL Evangelista on Pexels.com

    The Unexpected Conversation at 35,000 Feet

    One of the best things about this hobby is how it breaks down walls between strangers. On a recent flight, I noticed the man seated next to me wearing a Rolex GMT-Master. I leaned over to ask about it, and that simple gesture led to an hour-long conversation. He told me he wears the watch all the time—even when he sleeps—and how it has served him faithfully for years, far outlasting the Tag Heuer Carrera he once owned.

    It struck me that while brands, models, and complications matter, what really counts are the personal stories attached to these timepieces. Watches aren’t just objects—they’re companions to life itself.

    Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

    Why Watches Are a Grounded Hobby

    Unlike some hobbies that demand ever-new equipment or extreme conditions, watches stay with you every day. You don’t need to set aside special time—they sit quietly on your wrist, reminding you of the craftsmanship, design, and innovation packed into something smaller than a matchbox. The fact that a purely mechanical movement—gears, springs, and levers—can keep time with such accuracy still feels miraculous in the digital age.

    A Hobby with Layers of Meaning

    • History: Wearing a Speedmaster connects you to the moon landing; a Submariner, to generations of divers.
    • Engineering: Movements like ETA’s Powermatic 80 or Rolex’s 3235 aren’t just specs—they’re living testaments to precision.
    • Aesthetics: The artistry of dials, cases, and complications makes every piece an object of beauty.
    • Community: Enthusiast forums, watch fairs, and even casual office chats weave you into a global network of collectors.
    Photo by Tima Miroshnichenko on Pexels.com

    When a Hobby Becomes a Money Pit

    Collecting watches can quickly spiral into a money pit and even a hoarding problem if you’re not careful. The temptation to chase every new release, every “must-have” limited edition, or every bargain on a sales forum is real. Before long, you’re not curating a collection—you’re filling drawers with watches you barely wear.

    I’ve caught myself on this slope before, realizing that the line between meaningful collecting and compulsive buying can blur easily. The key is to recognize what truly resonates with you and to buy with intention, not impulse.

    Photo by Quang Viet Nguyen on Pexels.com

    Something to Follow Through Life

    Unlike many hobbies that come and go with phases of interest, watches age with you. They gather scratches, patina, and stories along the way. Your daily beater becomes the watch you wore through promotions, milestones, and travels. Your first serious piece becomes the one you’ll hand down, carrying not just timekeeping function but personal history.

    In a world where distractions are endless and hobbies can feel shallow, mechanical watches ground you. They remind you to slow down, to appreciate craftsmanship, and to value continuity.

    Photo by Su00f3c Nu0103ng u0110u1ed9ng on Pexels.com

    Final Thought

    Pursuing watches as a hobby isn’t about chasing luxury or flexing status—it’s about discovering meaning in the mechanical, connecting with people across the world, and finding an anchor you can carry on your wrist for a lifetime. Just remember: a collection should tell your story, not bury it under excess.

  • Watch Lume Guide: Brightness & Types

    Watch Lume Guide: Brightness & Types

    Nothing kills the romance of a diver quicker than a dial that vanishes at dusk. Let’s make sure yours doesn’t.


    What Exactly Is “Lume”?

    Lume is any luminous compound applied to a watch’s hands, indices, or bezel so the wearer can read time in the dark. Modern formulas are either self-charging phosphorescent paints (e.g., Super-LumiNova, LumiBrite) or tiny sealed tritium gas tubes that glow continuously through beta decay.

    Luminova Pigments via Wikimedia Commons (public domain)

    A Two-Minute History Lesson

    • Radium paint (1910s-1960s) – radioactive, banned for safety.
    • Tritium paint (1960s-1990s) – less radioactive but still regulated.
    • Strontium-aluminate pigments (mid-1990s-today) – Super-LumiNova, LumiBrite; non-radioactive, recharge endlessly.
    • Tritium gas tubes (1990s-today) – sealed H₃ vials, always “on,” half-life ≈ 12 years.
    Side-by-side comparison of a watch with illuminated markers in darkness and in light, showcasing luminescence difference.
    Ball watch with Tritium tubes, via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0.

    Meet the Major Players

    FamilyTypical ColorInitial Brightness*Fade RateNotable Brands
    Tritium Gas TubesGreen / Ice BlueUp to 100× Super-LumiNovaConstant for ~10–12 yrs, then halvesBALL, MB-Microtec, Marathon
    Super-LumiNova C3Pale green100 % baselineFastest first-hour fadeMost Swiss dive watches
    Super-LumiNova BGW9Cool blue-white95 %Slower fade than C3Omega, microbrands
    Rolex ChromalightDeep blue≈ 90 %Very slow, 8-hr legibilityRolex
    Seiko LumiBrite Pro (2024)Vivid greenBrighter & longer than prior LumiBrite3-5 hrs >10× old paintsSeiko Prospex Night Vision

    *Initial brightness relative to C3 baseline. Sources: manufacturer specs & 2024-25 field tests.


    Brightness Showdown (Real-World)

    1. Tritium tubes win in absolute darkness—they never need charging and stay readable even after an all-night flight.
    2. C3 and LumiBrite Pro hit you with a “flashbulb” blast but taper off within the first hour.
    3. BGW9 & Chromalight glow softer yet hold useful legibility for 6-8 hours, which is why I trust my Datejust overnight.
    A close-up of a watch face displaying glowing luminescent markers and hands in a dark environment.
    BGW9 (Rolex) via Wikimedia Commons

    Factors That Affect How Bright Your Watch Glows

    • Pigment thickness & area – Thickly applied markers beat razor-thin dress-watch hands.
    • Light source intensity & duration – UV-heavy LED flashlights top sunlight inside a window.
    • Age & moisture – Even modern paints lose punch after decades; water ingress can kill lume entirely.
    • Crystal tint & AR coatings – Blue AR can slightly cut green wavelengths.

    Caring for Your Lume

    Summarizing what I have learned based on endless browsing about lume:

    • Give the dial a 30-second blast with a UV flashlight before night dives.
    • Avoid prolonged temps > 60 °C; heat accelerates binder degradation.
    • Service vintage tritium only with a qualified watchmaker; loose particles are mildly radioactive.

    Key Takeaways

    • Brightest on paper: Tritium gas tubes, but they dim only after a decade, not hours.
    • Best all-rounder: BGW9 or Chromalight—pleasant hue, slower fade.
    • New contender: Seiko’s LumiBrite Pro lifts traditional paint a notch closer to tritium territory.
  • How to Prevent Watch Scratches

    How to Prevent Watch Scratches

    How I Learned to Prevent Watch Scratches

    When I first got my Sinn 104, I treated it like treasure. I’d gently wipe it down at the end of the day, admire the crisp dial under a lamp, and be extra careful when putting it on. Fast forward a few months—and the clasp looked like it had gone to war. Deep, scattered desk dive marks everywhere.

    It didn’t take long to figure out what was happening: long hours at my desk, wrists brushing against the cold metal edge of my MacBook, and absolutely no wrist protection. The result? A scratched clasp and a lesson in what not to do with your watch.

    If you’ve ever looked down and winced at fresh scratches, here’s a rundown of what really causes them—and how to stop the damage before it starts.

    Close-up of the back of an Omega Speedmaster Professional watch, displaying its engraved logo and clasp.
    Scratched clasp on Omega Speedmaster, via Wkimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

    1. Desk Diving: The Collector’s Common Enemy

    This is where it all began for me. The constant contact between my Sinn’s stainless steel clasp and the aluminum edge of my MacBook created a perfect storm of micro-abrasions.

    How to Prevent It:

    • Use a desk pad or leather mat—it adds cushioning and elevates your wrist above hard edges.
    • Wear long sleeves or slide your watch further up your wrist.
    • Switch to a fabric or rubber strap if you type a lot.
    • Work off an external keyboard if you use a laptop.

    2. Strap Swaps That Go Wrong

    I love switching straps, but in the early days, I wasn’t using the right tools. One slip of the spring bar tool is all it takes to leave a mark on your lugs or case.

    Prevention Tips:

    • Use a proper spring bar tool—not a paperclip or the tip of a knife.
    • Work on a padded surface.
    • Add masking tape around the lugs for extra protection.
    • Invest in quick-release straps for fuss-free changes.

    3. Accidental Knocks and Bumps

    Sometimes the damage isn’t immediate—it’s a slow accumulation from daily interactions. Door frames, countertops, subway poles—if you’re not careful, polished cases and bezels take the hit.

    Tips:

    • Be mindful in crowded spaces.
    • Wear smaller-cased watches in tight quarters or during errands.
    • Avoid stacking jewelry on the same wrist as your watch.

    4. Poor Storage Choices

    When I first started collecting, I’d toss my watch into a catch-all drawer at the end of the day. Big mistake. Crystals rubbing against casebacks, steel on steel—not good.

    Storage Upgrades:

    • Use a watch roll, tray, or travel pouch with dividers.
    • Never store watches crystal-down.
    • For travel, go with a dedicated zippered case that holds each watch separately.

    5. Shirt Cuffs and Micro-Abrasions

    You’d be surprised how much damage your clothes can do. Tight shirt cuffs rubbing against lugs all day can dull polished surfaces over time.

    Fixes:

    • Choose soft or looser cuffs when wearing polished watches.
    • Wipe down your watch regularly—grit and dust can cause hidden scratches when rubbed in.

    6. Material Matters (Some Wear Harder Than Others)

    Here’s a quick guide I’ve picked up through personal experience and collector circles:

    MaterialScratch Resistance
    Sapphire crystalExcellent
    Ceramic bezels/casesVery high (but can shatter)
    Tegimented steel (like Sinn’s)Much better than standard 316L
    TitaniumLight but scratch-prone
    Acrylic crystalsScratch easily—but polishable

    That said, even Sinn’s hardened steel can’t save you from daily abuse if you’re not mindful. Ask my clasp.


    Closing Thoughts: Embrace Patina, But Minimize Regret

    Scratches tell stories, but not every mark is worth earning. My Sinn taught me that prevention isn’t about babying your watch—it’s about forming smarter habits. Today, I keep a leather desk mat at work, swap to NATO straps on laptop-heavy days, and store my watches properly. It’s made a world of difference.

  • ETA Movements: Unsung heroes of Swiss Watchmaking

    ETA Movements: Unsung heroes of Swiss Watchmaking

    ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse—better known as ETA—is arguably the most influential movement maker in modern horology. Whether you’re wearing a Tissot, Hamilton, Tudor, or an independent microbrand, there’s a good chance an ETA caliber beats inside. But what exactly are ETA movements? How did they become the go-to choice for brands across the price spectrum? And where does ETA stand today in a world of increasing in-house ambition?

    Let’s take a closer look.


    A Brief History of ETA

    ETA’s story is deeply woven into the fabric of the Swiss watch industry. Established in 1856 as part of Eterna, the company was eventually folded into the Swatch Group during Switzerland’s consolidation efforts following the Quartz Crisis. Its mission: to supply Swiss watchmakers with high-quality, reliable mechanical and quartz movements.

    ETA became the quiet powerhouse enabling the Swiss mechanical renaissance of the 1980s and 1990s. By producing robust calibers at scale, ETA allowed countless brands to focus on design and marketing rather than reinventing the mechanical wheel.

    ETA Quartz movement
    ETA Quartz Movement via Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC0

    Why ETA Movements Became So Ubiquitous

    ETA’s dominance comes down to a few key factors:

    • Proven reliability – Movements like the ETA 2824-2 and Valjoux 7750 are known workhorses.
    • Ease of servicing – Watchmakers around the world are trained to repair ETA calibers.
    • Modular design – ETA movements are often modified or decorated to suit brand identities.
    • Scalability – From entry-level to high-end watches, ETA offers options across tiers.

    These traits made ETA ideal for microbrands and big players alike. Even luxury brands like Omega used heavily modified ETA bases before transitioning to more proprietary calibers.


    Major ETA Mechanical Movements

    Here’s a breakdown of ETA’s most iconic mechanical movements still relevant today:

    CaliberTypeFrequencyPower ReserveNotable Use Cases
    2824-2Automatic28,800 bph~38 hrsTissot, Hamilton, Steinhart
    2892-A2Automatic28,800 bph~42 hrsOmega (as base), Sinn
    7750Chronograph28,800 bph~42 hrsSinn, Breitling, IWC
    2801-2Manual Wind28,800 bph~42 hrsNomos (modded), Hamilton Khaki
    6497/6498Manual Wind (pocket watch base)18,000 bph~46 hrsPanerai, Unitas-style builds
    ETA 2824 movement close-up
    ETA 2824-2 movement close-up – via Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0

    The Controversy: Swatch Group’s Movement Restriction

    In the early 2000s, ETA announced it would gradually stop supplying ebauches (movement kits) to non-Swatch Group brands. This decision, backed by the Swiss Competition Commission, forced many brands to either develop in-house calibers or source from alternatives like Sellita, STP, La Joux-Perret, and Miyota.

    This pivot had two effects:

    • It catalyzed innovation. Brands like Oris and Tudor accelerated development of their own movements.
    • It increased appreciation for ETA calibers. Scarcity boosted the desirability of ETA-equipped models in enthusiast circles.

    ETA vs Sellita: What’s the Difference?

    Sellita, once a subcontractor for ETA, now produces “clones” of popular ETA movements—most famously the SW200, based on the 2824-2. While early Sellita runs had teething issues, current versions are largely on par in performance and are used by brands like Christopher Ward and Oris (before they went in-house).

    If you’re considering a watch with either movement, here’s a quick comparison:

    FeatureETA 2824-2Sellita SW200-1
    Jewels2526
    ReliabilityTime-testedModern, well-regarded
    Parts availabilityExcellentExcellent
    FinishingVaries by gradeVaries by brand spec

    ETA Today: Still Relevant?

    Despite the shift toward in-house, ETA remains a critical player in horology. Swatch Group continues to use and refine ETA calibers, and many brands still rely on their consistency. Newer movements like the C07.111 Powermatic 80 (based on the 2824-2 but with 80-hour reserve and plastic parts) show ETA’s commitment to evolving with the times—even if controversially.

    For collectors, a watch with an ETA movement isn’t just a placeholder—it’s a nod to the engine that quietly powered a generation of Swiss watchmaking.


    Final Thoughts

    ETA movements may not carry the flash of a hand-finished in-house caliber, but they are the unsung heroes of modern watchmaking. Their longevity, serviceability, and history make them worthy of both daily wear and collector respect.

    If you’re new to mechanical watches or hunting for value in the pre-owned market, a well-built ETA-powered piece is a smart starting point.

    Stay ticking, friends!


  • Windup Watch Fair 2025 – Chicago

    Windup Watch Fair 2025 – Chicago

    This past weekend, my wife and I visited the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago—a vibrant celebration of horology just a few blocks from home. Hosted by Worn & Wound, the fair brought together a compelling mix of microbrands, heritage manufacturers, and industry insiders, offering an up-close look at what’s next in mechanical watchmaking.

    From COSC-certified tool watches to hand-carved dials and one-handed designs, here are the watches and moments that left a mark.


    Top Watches That Stood Out

    Atelier Wen: Chinese Craft Meets Guilloché

    Close-up of a wrist wearing an Atelier Wen watch with a purple guilloché dial, set against a white background featuring the brand name Atelier.
    Atelier Wen’s stunning purple guilloché dial watch showcased the beauty of Eastern craftsmanship at the Windup Watch Fair.

    This Chinese microbrand delivered one of the most artistic dials at the fair. I tried on a model with a deeply etched, hand-carved guilloché dial in rich purple—a striking blend of Eastern artistry and mechanical credibility.

    Junghans Max Bill: Bauhaus Perfection

    A close-up of a wrist wearing a sleek, minimalist watch with a white face and black leather strap, next to a display of various watches with colorful straps and dials.
    The Junghans Max Bill watch, showcasing its minimalist elegance and Bauhaus-inspired design, perfectly displayed on the wrist.

    Clean lines, minimalist elegance, and timeless proportions made the Max Bill a joy to wear. My wife especially loved the Lady Max Bill, a pastel-toned variant that looked stunning on her wrist.

    Marathon GSAR: Military Grade with Tritium Power

    A close-up of a wrist wearing a black chronograph watch, displayed alongside various other watches on a table at the Windup Watch Fair.
    Showcasing the robust Marathon GSAR watch, a military-grade tool watch known for its luminescence and durability.

    Built like a tank and glowing for 25 years thanks to tritium tubes, the Marathon GSAR is a legit tool watch. No need to charge it under light—the lume just stays on.

    Straum Jan Mayen: Norwegian Nature on Your Wrist

    Two Straum watches displayed on a black leather strap, one with a textured silver dial and the other featuring a striking blue cracked-glass effect. Various branded patches are spread out underneath.
    Showcasing the unique designs of Straum watches, featuring textured dials inspired by nature.

    With dial textures inspired by volcanic landscapes and icy terrain, Straum’s Jan Mayen line brought poetic design to microbrand practicality.

    Formex: COSC-Certified Swiss Innovation

    Display of Formex Swiss made watches featuring various styles and designs on wooden stands.
    Formex Swiss-made watches showcasing robust designs and chronometer-certified movements at the Windup Watch Fair.

    Formex impressed with its robust yet lightweight designs and chronometer-certified movements. The build quality, comfort, and accuracy make this a dark horse among Swiss microbrands.

    Mühle Glashütte: Under-the-Radar German Excellence

    Display of Mühle Glashütte watches with various designs, colors, and styles showcased at the Windup Watch Fair.
    A showcase of Mühle Glashütte watches featuring a variety of styles from classic three-handers to nautical designs.

    This German heritage brand from Glashütte showcased an impressive variety—from clean three-handers to nautically inspired GMTs. It’s a brand more people should be talking about.

    Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph: Retro Cool

    A close-up of a person's wrist wearing a vintage-style chronograph watch with a black dial and silver mesh bracelet, surrounded by other watches on display in a watch fair setting.
    Showcasing the Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph with a classic panda dial at the Windup Watch Fair.

    Tried on a panda-dial version of this reissue. Classic 1960s vibes, two subdials, and just the right weight on the wrist.

    Baltic: Vintage Charm with Accessible Prices

    Three dive watches displayed on a grey surface, each featuring a black rubber strap. The left watch has a blue dial with white markers and hands, the center watch has a black dial with glowing markers, and the right watch has a black dial with white indices and a vintage design.
    A collection of Baltic’s vintage-inspired dive watches featuring black rubber straps and distinctive dials, showcasing their affordability and charm.

    Baltic’s vintage-inspired dive watches and pastel dials continue to punch above their price point. Easy recommendation for newcomers.


    Watches My Wife Loved

    My wife spent time trying on models that balanced personality with wearability. Here were her favorites:

    Lady Max Bill (Junghans): Soft pink dial, sleek Bauhaus simplicity

    A close-up view of a person's wrist wearing a Junghans Max Bill watch with a pastel pink dial and gray strap, set against a backdrop of various watch straps displayed on a table.
    The Junghans Lady Max Bill featuring a soft pink dial and sleek Bauhaus design, highlighted at the Windup Watch Fair.

    Meistersinger: Swiss-German watch with just one hand—a conversation starter

    Close-up of a hand wearing a minimalist watch with a light-colored dial and silver accents, surrounded by other watches on a display table at a watch fair.
    Showcasing the unique dial of the Meistersinger watch, featuring a single hand for a minimalist approach to timekeeping.

    March Lab: Art Deco aesthetic with a green octagonal dial, Parisian flair

    Close-up of a March Lab watch with a black octagonal dial and silver metal bracelet worn on a wrist.
    The March Lab watch features an octagonal design with a striking green dial, showcasing a blend of Art Deco aesthetics and modern craftsmanship.

    Oris Aquis Date: Bold pink dial diver, stylish yet serious

    A close-up of a pink Oris Aquis Date watch displayed on a wrist, featuring a stainless steel bracelet and a bold, vibrant dial.
    The Oris Aquis Date featuring a bold pink dial, showcased for its stylish yet serious design at the Windup Watch Fair.

    She loved the diversity in styles, proving again that the women’s mechanical watch space is finally becoming more exciting.


    Fireside Chat: Oris CEO & CD Peacock on ADs vs Grey Market

    Panel discussion during the Windup Watch Fair 2025 in Chicago featuring industry experts discussing the topic 'To AD or Not to AD'.
    A moderated discussion at the Windup Watch Fair focusing on the importance of Authorized Dealers in the watch industry.

    One of the most valuable experiences was attending a moderated talk between Oris Americas CEO, VJ Ceronimo and the VC of CD Peacock, Steve Holtzman, a prominent Chicago-based authorized dealer. The topic? Why buying from Authorized Dealers (ADs) still matters in 2025.

    Some key takeaways:

    “The AD is your first line of trust, service, and education,” said the VP of CD Peacock.

    “We’re not just selling watches, we’re selling heritage and responsibility,” added Rolf Studer.

    They discussed how ADs offer not just legitimacy but also continuity—warranty, service, and even future upgrade pathways. In contrast, the grey market often offers lower prices at the cost of trust, after-sale support, and authenticity.

    My View: ADs Are Worth It

    For any watch priced above $2,000 to $3,000, I firmly believe buying from an AD or the brand directly is the wiser route. You get the peace of mind, service support, and sometimes even community that makes ownership feel richer and more personal.


    Final Thoughts

    Windup Chicago 2025 was more than just a fair—it was a community event. Whether it was talking to founders, hearing industry insights, or seeing my wife light up trying on a new dial color, this fair captured the spirit of why we love watches.


    Similar Reads

  • Watch History: From Bells to Smartwatches

    Watch History: From Bells to Smartwatches

    Watches tell time, but their evolution tells a story.
    From medieval tower clocks to precision micro-mechanics on our wrists, the journey of watches spans centuries of invention, fashion, and obsession. This is the tale of how timekeeping became personal—and what might come next.


    The Dawn of Timekeeping: Sundials and Tower Clocks

    Long before watches, ancient civilizations tracked time using sundials, water clocks, and candle clocks. But these were immobile, communal, and far from precise.

    It wasn’t until the 14th century in Europe that mechanical tower clocks began to dominate town squares—giant machines powered by weights and regulated by verge escapements. These massive clocks brought standardized time to communities, often regulated by monks and cathedral bells.

    Salisbury Cathedral image
    14th-century clock mechanism, Salisbury Cathedral. Image via Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0.

    Enter the Pocket Watch: Time Gets Personal

    In the 16th century, German inventor Peter Henlein created one of the first portable clocks—what we now call a pocket watch. These “Nuremberg Eggs” were spring-driven and worn around the neck or carried in pockets.

    Nuremberg Egg
    Image of a clock-watch “Nuremberg Egg” watch by Peter Henlein, 1510 via Wikimedia Commons under CC BY-SA 3.0.

    As watchmaking advanced through the 17th and 18th centuries, pocket watches became slimmer, more accurate, and increasingly decorative—status symbols for nobility and merchants alike. Innovations like the balance spring (1675) and jeweled movements greatly enhanced accuracy and durability.

    Portable clock
    Photo of 16th-century portable clock from Musée Paul‑Dupuy’s collection in Toulouse, via Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0.

    The Birth of the Wristwatch: War, Women, and Innovation

    Despite their elegance, pocket watches had a flaw—they needed two hands to check the time. The idea of strapping a timepiece to the wrist was initially considered feminine. But practicality changed everything.

    During the Boer War and World War I, soldiers began wearing modified pocket watches on their wrists for quick access. Military utility made wristwatches masculine, reliable, and essential.

    By the 1920s, brands like Rolex, Longines, and Cartier were producing dedicated wristwatches for men. The transition was complete—wristwatches became the new standard.

    Trench watch
    WWI-era trench wristwatch. Image via Wikimedia Commons, released under public domain.

    The Quartz Revolution: Accuracy vs. Tradition

    In 1969, the world changed again when Seiko released the Astron, the first commercial quartz watch. Accurate to within seconds per month, it triggered the Quartz Crisis, nearly destroying the Swiss mechanical watch industry.

    Brands like Omega, Tissot, and even Rolex scrambled to catch up. Meanwhile, Swatch emerged in the 1980s with colorful, affordable quartz watches, helping Switzerland regain relevance with mass-market appeal.

    Seiko quartz watch
    1969 Seiko Astron – the first quartz wristwatch. Image via Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0.”

    Mechanical Renaissance: Art Meets Engineering

    Despite quartz dominance, mechanical watches made a comeback in the 1990s and 2000s. No longer about pure utility, they became luxury items, heritage symbols, and feats of engineering.

    Collectors revered the ticking heartbeat of an automatic movement, the craftsmanship behind hand-finished cases, and the legacy behind names like Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Rolex.

    AP Royal Oak Watch
    Photo by Sean Shirzadi on Pexels.com

    The Smartwatch Era: The Future on Your Wrist?

    The 2010s ushered in a new contender: the smartwatch. Apple, Samsung, and Garmin blurred the line between fitness trackers, notifications, and health monitoring. Yet, traditional mechanical watches haven’t disappeared.

    Instead, horology is entering a hybrid phase:

    • Mechanical watches = emotion, legacy, craftsmanship
    • Smartwatches = utility, data, innovation

    We might see mechanical hybrids (like Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive or experimental micro-energy harvesters), watches with blockchain service records (as used by Breitling and Vacheron Constantin), or AI-assisted movement calibration (still emerging, but being explored in manufacturing and smart hybrid platforms) in the near future.

    Samsung galaxy watch
    Photo by Andrey Matveev on Pexels.com

    Final Thoughts: Why Watches Still Matter

    In a world of screens and digital clocks, why do we still care about watches?

    Because they’re more than tools.

    They’re tiny machines that tell time—and timeless stories.
    Watches mark moments, carry memories, and express personality like few other objects can.

    As horology continues to evolve, one thing remains constant: our fascination with time, and how we wear it.

  • 3 Iconic Watches from Sinn

    3 Iconic Watches from Sinn

    If you’ve spent time around watch enthusiasts, you’ve probably noticed that few brands evoke the kind of passionate following Sinn (pronounced “Zinn”) does. Founded by Helmut Sinn in 1961, this Frankfurt-based watchmaker quickly became synonymous with rugged, functional watches designed initially for pilots and professionals.

    Over the decades, Sinn has stayed true to its roots, focusing on purposeful design, impressive durability, and German precision engineering. This authenticity has earned the brand a dedicated community of fans who appreciate watches built for real-world performance rather than just luxury appeal.

    3 Iconic Sinn Watches for Enthusiasts

    1. Sinn 104

    The Sinn 104 is a versatile classic, celebrated for its clean pilot-watch aesthetics and robust build. With its bidirectional countdown bezel, day-date complication, and highly legible dial, the 104 effortlessly transitions from casual to formal settings. It’s a staple among watch collectors who appreciate practicality combined with timeless style. I have owned this watch for nearly a year now and I love it with all its qualities and flaws (aka – small power reserve of 38 hours and modest accuracy).

    2. Sinn U50

    The Sinn U50 is a diver’s dream watch—compact, yet nearly indestructible. Crafted from corrosion-resistant German submarine steel, the U50 is rated to an impressive 500 meters water resistance. Its ruggedness and smaller size (41mm diameter) make it a favorite for enthusiasts seeking toughness without excessive bulk. This is likely going to be my next Sinn, probably the one that I’ll buy when I’m in Frankfurt.

    3. Sinn 556

    My personal pick for the third iconic Sinn model is the Sinn 556. Known for its minimalist elegance, the 556 balances functionality with understated design. Its simplicity makes it an ideal entry point for newcomers to the brand while retaining all the precision and reliability Sinn is known for. This is a great entry level Sinn watch.

    Personal Spotlight: My Sinn 104

    My Sinn 104 watch macro shot

    As many of you know, I proudly own a Sinn 104, a watch that captures everything I love about the brand: crisp legibility, precision build, and understated coolness. I’ve worn it through hikes, meetings, and even formal dinners—never once feeling out of place.

    But perhaps my favorite Sinn story occurred during an unexpected moment at—of all places—a Rolex boutique.

    I walked into the Rolex boutique one afternoon, hoping merely to express interest in an Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36mm with a jubilee bracelet and white-gold fluted bezel —a watch notoriously hard to snag without considerable patience and repeated visits. On my wrist that day, naturally, was my Sinn 104. As my Rolex consultant began our conversation, his eyes quickly shifted to my Sinn.

    “Is that a Sinn?” he asked, clearly intrigued. Within moments, he was handling my watch, turning it around, admiring its craftsmanship, and soon, our initial small talk turned into a lively chat about tool watches, engineering prowess, and understated German design. The consultant, clearly a genuine enthusiast himself, appreciated the watch’s honest purposefulness.

    As our conversation wound down and after we’d discussed various Rolex models, the consultant stepped away briefly, returning with an unexpected surprise—a fresh Datejust in the exact configuration I was seeking. I had walked in fully expecting a polite “We’ll call you if something comes up,” but here I was, offered the coveted model on my very first visit, something people typically spend months waiting and chasing.

    I left that day with more than a Rolex—I left with a profound appreciation for how Sinn, even quietly worn on the wrist, speaks volumes.

    Final Thoughts

    Despite minor shortcomings, Sinn has genuinely impressed me with its no-nonsense philosophy and exceptional value proposition. There’s an undeniable charm in wearing a watch from a brand driven by real-world use rather than flashy marketing campaigns. It’s authentic, reliable, and undeniably cool—exactly why Sinn watches deserve their loyal cult following.