Category: Brand Spotlight

  • Watchmakers Beyond Patek, Rolex & AP

    Watchmakers Beyond Patek, Rolex & AP

    A Look Past the Usual Icons

    Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Audemars Piguet dominate the modern imagination. These maisons built reputations that echo far beyond watch collecting. Yet a quieter and more intricate world exists past these giants.

    It is a world defined by invention, obsessive craft, unusual mechanical ideas, and the kind of focus that can only come from creators who refuse to scale beyond what their hands can control. This is where connoisseurs drift when they want substance rather than status alone


    F. P. Journe and the Philosophy of Originality

    François Paul Journe founded his company with a personal promise printed on every dial: made according to an ideal. His approach blends classical inspiration with mechanical ideas drawn from the fringes of traditional engineering.

    Signature Creations

    Chronometre a Resonance
    Two balances that influence one another through natural resonance, producing a form of timekeeping that is as rare as it is elegant.

    Tourbillon Souverain
    A tourbillon paired with a constant force system that stabilizes torque for improved precision.

    Elegante Collection
    A quartz movement designed with the seriousness of a mechanical caliber, capable of entering a rest state to preserve energy.

    Expected Retail Range

    Time only models begin around thirty thousand dollars.
    Complications range widely from eighty thousand dollars upward.
    Tourbillons and resonance pieces regularly exceed two hundred thousand dollars.

    A close-up view of an F.P. Journe wristwatch
    Rama, CC BY-SA 2.0 FR https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/fr/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons

    Breguet and the Birth of Modern Horology

    Founded in seventeen seventy five, Breguet is the cradle of many concepts that now seem foundational. The tourbillon, the use of engine turned surfaces, and the open tipped hands the world still associates with the brand all began here.

    Today Breguet’s work remains quietly majestic. These are pieces for collectors who enjoy the calm of classical design and deep finishing.

    Signature Creations

    Classique Collection
    A study in proportion, featuring enamel dials, thin cases, and refined movements.

    Tradition 7047
    A dramatic fusion of tourbillon and fusee and chain technology that channels eighteenth century theory into a modern stage piece.

    Marine Collection
    Evokes a long history of maritime timekeeping with a contemporary voice.

    Expected Retail Range

    Classique models begin around eighteen thousand dollars.
    High complications extend from sixty thousand dollars to above two hundred thousand dollars.

    Close-up of a Breguet watch featuring a decorative silver dial with multiple subdials, Roman numerals, and a brown leather strap.
    Rama, CC BY-SA 2.0 FR https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/fr/deed.en, via Wikimedia Commons

    A. Lange & Söhne and the Saxon Ideal

    After decades of silence during the twentieth century, A. Lange & Söhne returned in nineteen ninety four with a clear mission: to reclaim German precision and present it in an uncompromising modern form.

    Its movements are architectural. Its finishing is disciplined. And its design language is both severe and poetic.

    Signature Creations

    Lange One
    Often called the most successful asymmetrical design in modern watchmaking, built on a strict mathematical grid.

    Datograph Up Down
    A chronograph of such balance and refinement that it is often considered the benchmark of the entire category.

    Zeitwerk
    A mechanical jumping time display powered by a complex constant force mechanism.

    Expected Retail Range

    Many three hand models begin near thirty thousand dollars.
    Datograph and Zeitwerk pieces often range between eighty thousand and one hundred fifty thousand dollars.

    A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Daymatic
    A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Daymatic © A. Lange & Söhne

    Vacheron Constantin and the Power of Continuity

    Vacheron Constantin has been crafting watches since seventeen fifty five, making it one of the oldest continuously operating maisons in existence. Its work is refined, serene, and deeply tied to the traditions of Geneva.

    Signature Creations

    Patrimony Collection
    Pure minimalism with gentle curves and movements finished to Geneva Seal standards.

    Overseas Collection
    A versatile sports watch with a bracelet known for its comfort and strong technical foundation.

    Historique American 1921
    A driver’s watch with a rotated dial that channels early twentieth century charm.

    Expected Retail Range

    Dress models begin near twenty thousand dollars.
    Complications extend from fifty thousand dollars to two hundred thousand dollars and beyond.

    Vacheron Constantin Overseas Turbillon
    Vacheron Constantin Overseas Turbillon © Vacheron Constantin

    Parmigiani Fleurier and the Cult of Proportion

    Michel Parmigiani began as a restorer of historical pieces, and that background echoes through his designs. Every curve and bevel feels considered. Nothing is loud, yet everything is intentional.

    Signature Creations

    Tonda PF Micro Rotor
    Understated elegance in an ultra thin form, with a warm presence on the wrist.

    Toric Chronograph
    Inspired by classical architectural geometry.

    Kalpa Collection
    A distinctive curved case with in house calibers.

    Expected Retail Range

    Most Tonda PF models fall between twenty thousand and thirty five thousand dollars. Complications stretch upward from fifty thousand dollars.

    Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph
    Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph © Parmigiani Fleurier

    The Independent Atelier Landscape

    Beyond the heritage maisons is a constellation of independent creators who treat watchmaking as a calling rather than an industry. Their production numbers are often in the dozens rather than thousands.

    Notable Names

    Laurent Ferrier
    Soft lines, natural escapement technology, and serene finishing.

    Voutilainen
    Hand worked dials, vivid color, and extraordinary movement decoration.

    H. Moser and Cie
    Minimalist design blended with surprising technical depth and a willingness to question convention.

    Typical Retail Range

    Most independents begin around thirty thousand dollars and ascend rapidly depending on complications and rarity.

    H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Moon Concept Meteorite
    H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Moon Concept Meteorite, source: MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG

    Why Explore Beyond the Familiar

    The maisons beyond Patek, Rolex, and AP remind us that watchmaking is not only about prestige. It is about curiosity, courage, and devotion to craft.

    Collectors who follow these paths discover timepieces that reflect more than success. They reflect taste, patience, and a genuine connection to the art.


  • Windup Watch Fair 2025 – Chicago

    Windup Watch Fair 2025 – Chicago

    This past weekend, my wife and I visited the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago—a vibrant celebration of horology just a few blocks from home. Hosted by Worn & Wound, the fair brought together a compelling mix of microbrands, heritage manufacturers, and industry insiders, offering an up-close look at what’s next in mechanical watchmaking.

    From COSC-certified tool watches to hand-carved dials and one-handed designs, here are the watches and moments that left a mark.


    Top Watches That Stood Out

    Atelier Wen: Chinese Craft Meets Guilloché

    Close-up of a wrist wearing an Atelier Wen watch with a purple guilloché dial, set against a white background featuring the brand name Atelier.
    Atelier Wen’s stunning purple guilloché dial watch showcased the beauty of Eastern craftsmanship at the Windup Watch Fair.

    This Chinese microbrand delivered one of the most artistic dials at the fair. I tried on a model with a deeply etched, hand-carved guilloché dial in rich purple—a striking blend of Eastern artistry and mechanical credibility.

    Junghans Max Bill: Bauhaus Perfection

    A close-up of a wrist wearing a sleek, minimalist watch with a white face and black leather strap, next to a display of various watches with colorful straps and dials.
    The Junghans Max Bill watch, showcasing its minimalist elegance and Bauhaus-inspired design, perfectly displayed on the wrist.

    Clean lines, minimalist elegance, and timeless proportions made the Max Bill a joy to wear. My wife especially loved the Lady Max Bill, a pastel-toned variant that looked stunning on her wrist.

    Marathon GSAR: Military Grade with Tritium Power

    A close-up of a wrist wearing a black chronograph watch, displayed alongside various other watches on a table at the Windup Watch Fair.
    Showcasing the robust Marathon GSAR watch, a military-grade tool watch known for its luminescence and durability.

    Built like a tank and glowing for 25 years thanks to tritium tubes, the Marathon GSAR is a legit tool watch. No need to charge it under light—the lume just stays on.

    Straum Jan Mayen: Norwegian Nature on Your Wrist

    Two Straum watches displayed on a black leather strap, one with a textured silver dial and the other featuring a striking blue cracked-glass effect. Various branded patches are spread out underneath.
    Showcasing the unique designs of Straum watches, featuring textured dials inspired by nature.

    With dial textures inspired by volcanic landscapes and icy terrain, Straum’s Jan Mayen line brought poetic design to microbrand practicality.

    Formex: COSC-Certified Swiss Innovation

    Display of Formex Swiss made watches featuring various styles and designs on wooden stands.
    Formex Swiss-made watches showcasing robust designs and chronometer-certified movements at the Windup Watch Fair.

    Formex impressed with its robust yet lightweight designs and chronometer-certified movements. The build quality, comfort, and accuracy make this a dark horse among Swiss microbrands.

    Mühle Glashütte: Under-the-Radar German Excellence

    Display of Mühle Glashütte watches with various designs, colors, and styles showcased at the Windup Watch Fair.
    A showcase of Mühle Glashütte watches featuring a variety of styles from classic three-handers to nautical designs.

    This German heritage brand from Glashütte showcased an impressive variety—from clean three-handers to nautically inspired GMTs. It’s a brand more people should be talking about.

    Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph: Retro Cool

    A close-up of a person's wrist wearing a vintage-style chronograph watch with a black dial and silver mesh bracelet, surrounded by other watches on display in a watch fair setting.
    Showcasing the Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph with a classic panda dial at the Windup Watch Fair.

    Tried on a panda-dial version of this reissue. Classic 1960s vibes, two subdials, and just the right weight on the wrist.

    Baltic: Vintage Charm with Accessible Prices

    Three dive watches displayed on a grey surface, each featuring a black rubber strap. The left watch has a blue dial with white markers and hands, the center watch has a black dial with glowing markers, and the right watch has a black dial with white indices and a vintage design.
    A collection of Baltic’s vintage-inspired dive watches featuring black rubber straps and distinctive dials, showcasing their affordability and charm.

    Baltic’s vintage-inspired dive watches and pastel dials continue to punch above their price point. Easy recommendation for newcomers.


    Watches My Wife Loved

    My wife spent time trying on models that balanced personality with wearability. Here were her favorites:

    Lady Max Bill (Junghans): Soft pink dial, sleek Bauhaus simplicity

    A close-up view of a person's wrist wearing a Junghans Max Bill watch with a pastel pink dial and gray strap, set against a backdrop of various watch straps displayed on a table.
    The Junghans Lady Max Bill featuring a soft pink dial and sleek Bauhaus design, highlighted at the Windup Watch Fair.

    Meistersinger: Swiss-German watch with just one hand—a conversation starter

    Close-up of a hand wearing a minimalist watch with a light-colored dial and silver accents, surrounded by other watches on a display table at a watch fair.
    Showcasing the unique dial of the Meistersinger watch, featuring a single hand for a minimalist approach to timekeeping.

    March Lab: Art Deco aesthetic with a green octagonal dial, Parisian flair

    Close-up of a March Lab watch with a black octagonal dial and silver metal bracelet worn on a wrist.
    The March Lab watch features an octagonal design with a striking green dial, showcasing a blend of Art Deco aesthetics and modern craftsmanship.

    Oris Aquis Date: Bold pink dial diver, stylish yet serious

    A close-up of a pink Oris Aquis Date watch displayed on a wrist, featuring a stainless steel bracelet and a bold, vibrant dial.
    The Oris Aquis Date featuring a bold pink dial, showcased for its stylish yet serious design at the Windup Watch Fair.

    She loved the diversity in styles, proving again that the women’s mechanical watch space is finally becoming more exciting.


    Fireside Chat: Oris CEO & CD Peacock on ADs vs Grey Market

    Panel discussion during the Windup Watch Fair 2025 in Chicago featuring industry experts discussing the topic 'To AD or Not to AD'.
    A moderated discussion at the Windup Watch Fair focusing on the importance of Authorized Dealers in the watch industry.

    One of the most valuable experiences was attending a moderated talk between Oris Americas CEO, VJ Ceronimo and the VC of CD Peacock, Steve Holtzman, a prominent Chicago-based authorized dealer. The topic? Why buying from Authorized Dealers (ADs) still matters in 2025.

    Some key takeaways:

    “The AD is your first line of trust, service, and education,” said the VP of CD Peacock.

    “We’re not just selling watches, we’re selling heritage and responsibility,” added Rolf Studer.

    They discussed how ADs offer not just legitimacy but also continuity—warranty, service, and even future upgrade pathways. In contrast, the grey market often offers lower prices at the cost of trust, after-sale support, and authenticity.

    My View: ADs Are Worth It

    For any watch priced above $2,000 to $3,000, I firmly believe buying from an AD or the brand directly is the wiser route. You get the peace of mind, service support, and sometimes even community that makes ownership feel richer and more personal.


    Final Thoughts

    Windup Chicago 2025 was more than just a fair—it was a community event. Whether it was talking to founders, hearing industry insights, or seeing my wife light up trying on a new dial color, this fair captured the spirit of why we love watches.


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  • 3 Iconic Watches from Sinn

    3 Iconic Watches from Sinn

    If you’ve spent time around watch enthusiasts, you’ve probably noticed that few brands evoke the kind of passionate following Sinn (pronounced “Zinn”) does. Founded by Helmut Sinn in 1961, this Frankfurt-based watchmaker quickly became synonymous with rugged, functional watches designed initially for pilots and professionals.

    Over the decades, Sinn has stayed true to its roots, focusing on purposeful design, impressive durability, and German precision engineering. This authenticity has earned the brand a dedicated community of fans who appreciate watches built for real-world performance rather than just luxury appeal.

    3 Iconic Sinn Watches for Enthusiasts

    1. Sinn 104

    The Sinn 104 is a versatile classic, celebrated for its clean pilot-watch aesthetics and robust build. With its bidirectional countdown bezel, day-date complication, and highly legible dial, the 104 effortlessly transitions from casual to formal settings. It’s a staple among watch collectors who appreciate practicality combined with timeless style. I have owned this watch for nearly a year now and I love it with all its qualities and flaws (aka – small power reserve of 38 hours and modest accuracy).

    2. Sinn U50

    The Sinn U50 is a diver’s dream watch—compact, yet nearly indestructible. Crafted from corrosion-resistant German submarine steel, the U50 is rated to an impressive 500 meters water resistance. Its ruggedness and smaller size (41mm diameter) make it a favorite for enthusiasts seeking toughness without excessive bulk. This is likely going to be my next Sinn, probably the one that I’ll buy when I’m in Frankfurt.

    3. Sinn 556

    My personal pick for the third iconic Sinn model is the Sinn 556. Known for its minimalist elegance, the 556 balances functionality with understated design. Its simplicity makes it an ideal entry point for newcomers to the brand while retaining all the precision and reliability Sinn is known for. This is a great entry level Sinn watch.

    Personal Spotlight: My Sinn 104

    My Sinn 104 watch macro shot

    As many of you know, I proudly own a Sinn 104, a watch that captures everything I love about the brand: crisp legibility, precision build, and understated coolness. I’ve worn it through hikes, meetings, and even formal dinners—never once feeling out of place.

    But perhaps my favorite Sinn story occurred during an unexpected moment at—of all places—a Rolex boutique.

    I walked into the Rolex boutique one afternoon, hoping merely to express interest in an Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36mm with a jubilee bracelet and white-gold fluted bezel —a watch notoriously hard to snag without considerable patience and repeated visits. On my wrist that day, naturally, was my Sinn 104. As my Rolex consultant began our conversation, his eyes quickly shifted to my Sinn.

    “Is that a Sinn?” he asked, clearly intrigued. Within moments, he was handling my watch, turning it around, admiring its craftsmanship, and soon, our initial small talk turned into a lively chat about tool watches, engineering prowess, and understated German design. The consultant, clearly a genuine enthusiast himself, appreciated the watch’s honest purposefulness.

    As our conversation wound down and after we’d discussed various Rolex models, the consultant stepped away briefly, returning with an unexpected surprise—a fresh Datejust in the exact configuration I was seeking. I had walked in fully expecting a polite “We’ll call you if something comes up,” but here I was, offered the coveted model on my very first visit, something people typically spend months waiting and chasing.

    I left that day with more than a Rolex—I left with a profound appreciation for how Sinn, even quietly worn on the wrist, speaks volumes.

    Final Thoughts

    Despite minor shortcomings, Sinn has genuinely impressed me with its no-nonsense philosophy and exceptional value proposition. There’s an undeniable charm in wearing a watch from a brand driven by real-world use rather than flashy marketing campaigns. It’s authentic, reliable, and undeniably cool—exactly why Sinn watches deserve their loyal cult following.

  • BA111OD: A Tech-Driven Swiss Watchmaking Disruptor

    BA111OD: A Tech-Driven Swiss Watchmaking Disruptor

    5th Anniversary Edition Tourbillon from Ba111od.
    5th Anniversary Edition Tourbillon from Ba111od.

    There are Swiss watch brands, and then there’s BA111OD—a maverick rewriting the rules of traditional horology. In a landscape dominated by legacy houses and centuries-old savoir-faire, BA111OD dares to ask: what if Swiss watchmaking could be just as innovative in how it’s sold as in how it’s made?

    This post explores how the brand is combining classical mechanical excellence with bold tech-fueled disruption—and why it may deserve a spot in your collection sooner than you think.


    From Neuchâtel With a New Mission

    Founded in 2019 by Thomas Baillod, a veteran of the watch industry, BA111OD was born out of frustration with outdated distribution models. Instead of relying on retailers or middlemen, Baillod built a direct-to-consumer system enhanced by mobile app technology and peer-to-peer sales—something almost unheard of in traditional Swiss watch circles.

    Ba111od HQ in Neuchâtel.
    Ba111od HQ in Neuchâtel.

    This democratized model, dubbed phygital (physical + digital), allows owners to become brand ambassadors, reselling watches through a controlled ecosystem while earning commissions or discounts—almost like watch collecting meets affiliate entrepreneurship.


    Design Language: Bold, Architectural, and Avant-Garde

    Each Chapter in BA111OD’s lineup feels like a creative statement. Think of the Chapter 1 and 2 as early prototypes with modern skeleton dials and affordable pricing. But things really heat up with Chapter 3 and beyond, where the brand leans into complications, architectural casework, and luxury materials—without touching the usual five-figure price tags.

    • Chapter 3.1: Skeleton dial, automatic movement, and sapphire caseback for under CHF 600.
    • Chapter 4.1 T.V.D.: A tribute to Baillod’s father, featuring a tourbillon—yes, a Swiss tourbillon—for around CHF 4,200.
    • Chapter 5 Chrono Magma: A sculptural chronograph with a micro-rotor and fiery forged carbon case.
    Chapter 4.2 Lily Tourbillon
    Chapter 4.2 Lily Tourbillon

    Not Just Gimmicks: Legit Horological Street Cred

    It’s easy to dismiss disruptive brands as hype machines, but BA111OD earns its stripes through in-house development, Swiss manufacturing, and smart complication sourcing.

    • Tourbillon movements are co-developed with Concepto Watch Factory.
    • Chronograph modules are finely decorated and precision-tested.
    • Cases are machined and assembled in Switzerland, with sapphire crystals and quality control at par with far pricier brands.

    For those who care about value per dollar (or franc), few can match the spec sheet BA111OD brings to the table.

    Chapter 4 Dial
    Chapter 4 Dial

    A Watch You Can Buy—From a Friend

    One of BA111OD’s most radical moves is its referral model, where existing owners act as micro-retailers through the BA111OD app. It’s not MLM, it’s curated. Access to some models is only available through existing “Afluendors”—affluent influencers, as Baillod calls them.

    This makes ownership feel exclusive but not exclusionary—and turns every customer into a potential community-builder.


    Should You Add One to Your Collection?

    If you’re a collector who:

    • Loves brands with a strong founder story,
    • Wants to support independent innovation,
    • Is excited by tourbillons or micro-rotors at approachable prices,
    • Enjoys the idea of community-driven access…

    …then yes, BA111OD might just belong on your wrist.

    Chapter 4 Infinity Flying Tourbillon
    Chapter 4 Infinity Flying Tourbillon

    Final Thoughts

    BA111OD isn’t just a watch brand—it’s a movement. A movement challenging the norms of how watches are made, sold, and experienced. With their combination of Swiss quality, smart pricing, and futuristic distribution, they’ve earned a place on the radar of serious enthusiasts.

    If the Swiss watch industry ever needed a wake-up call, BA111OD might be holding the megaphone.