Tag: affordable mechanical watches

  • ETA Movements: Unsung heroes of Swiss Watchmaking

    ETA Movements: Unsung heroes of Swiss Watchmaking

    ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse—better known as ETA—is arguably the most influential movement maker in modern horology. Whether you’re wearing a Tissot, Hamilton, Tudor, or an independent microbrand, there’s a good chance an ETA caliber beats inside. But what exactly are ETA movements? How did they become the go-to choice for brands across the price spectrum? And where does ETA stand today in a world of increasing in-house ambition?

    Let’s take a closer look.


    A Brief History of ETA

    ETA’s story is deeply woven into the fabric of the Swiss watch industry. Established in 1856 as part of Eterna, the company was eventually folded into the Swatch Group during Switzerland’s consolidation efforts following the Quartz Crisis. Its mission: to supply Swiss watchmakers with high-quality, reliable mechanical and quartz movements.

    ETA became the quiet powerhouse enabling the Swiss mechanical renaissance of the 1980s and 1990s. By producing robust calibers at scale, ETA allowed countless brands to focus on design and marketing rather than reinventing the mechanical wheel.

    ETA Quartz movement
    ETA Quartz Movement via Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC0

    Why ETA Movements Became So Ubiquitous

    ETA’s dominance comes down to a few key factors:

    • Proven reliability – Movements like the ETA 2824-2 and Valjoux 7750 are known workhorses.
    • Ease of servicing – Watchmakers around the world are trained to repair ETA calibers.
    • Modular design – ETA movements are often modified or decorated to suit brand identities.
    • Scalability – From entry-level to high-end watches, ETA offers options across tiers.

    These traits made ETA ideal for microbrands and big players alike. Even luxury brands like Omega used heavily modified ETA bases before transitioning to more proprietary calibers.


    Major ETA Mechanical Movements

    Here’s a breakdown of ETA’s most iconic mechanical movements still relevant today:

    CaliberTypeFrequencyPower ReserveNotable Use Cases
    2824-2Automatic28,800 bph~38 hrsTissot, Hamilton, Steinhart
    2892-A2Automatic28,800 bph~42 hrsOmega (as base), Sinn
    7750Chronograph28,800 bph~42 hrsSinn, Breitling, IWC
    2801-2Manual Wind28,800 bph~42 hrsNomos (modded), Hamilton Khaki
    6497/6498Manual Wind (pocket watch base)18,000 bph~46 hrsPanerai, Unitas-style builds
    ETA 2824 movement close-up
    ETA 2824-2 movement close-up – via Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0

    The Controversy: Swatch Group’s Movement Restriction

    In the early 2000s, ETA announced it would gradually stop supplying ebauches (movement kits) to non-Swatch Group brands. This decision, backed by the Swiss Competition Commission, forced many brands to either develop in-house calibers or source from alternatives like Sellita, STP, La Joux-Perret, and Miyota.

    This pivot had two effects:

    • It catalyzed innovation. Brands like Oris and Tudor accelerated development of their own movements.
    • It increased appreciation for ETA calibers. Scarcity boosted the desirability of ETA-equipped models in enthusiast circles.

    ETA vs Sellita: What’s the Difference?

    Sellita, once a subcontractor for ETA, now produces “clones” of popular ETA movements—most famously the SW200, based on the 2824-2. While early Sellita runs had teething issues, current versions are largely on par in performance and are used by brands like Christopher Ward and Oris (before they went in-house).

    If you’re considering a watch with either movement, here’s a quick comparison:

    FeatureETA 2824-2Sellita SW200-1
    Jewels2526
    ReliabilityTime-testedModern, well-regarded
    Parts availabilityExcellentExcellent
    FinishingVaries by gradeVaries by brand spec

    ETA Today: Still Relevant?

    Despite the shift toward in-house, ETA remains a critical player in horology. Swatch Group continues to use and refine ETA calibers, and many brands still rely on their consistency. Newer movements like the C07.111 Powermatic 80 (based on the 2824-2 but with 80-hour reserve and plastic parts) show ETA’s commitment to evolving with the times—even if controversially.

    For collectors, a watch with an ETA movement isn’t just a placeholder—it’s a nod to the engine that quietly powered a generation of Swiss watchmaking.


    Final Thoughts

    ETA movements may not carry the flash of a hand-finished in-house caliber, but they are the unsung heroes of modern watchmaking. Their longevity, serviceability, and history make them worthy of both daily wear and collector respect.

    If you’re new to mechanical watches or hunting for value in the pre-owned market, a well-built ETA-powered piece is a smart starting point.

    Stay ticking, friends!


  • Windup Watch Fair 2025 – Chicago

    Windup Watch Fair 2025 – Chicago

    This past weekend, my wife and I visited the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago—a vibrant celebration of horology just a few blocks from home. Hosted by Worn & Wound, the fair brought together a compelling mix of microbrands, heritage manufacturers, and industry insiders, offering an up-close look at what’s next in mechanical watchmaking.

    From COSC-certified tool watches to hand-carved dials and one-handed designs, here are the watches and moments that left a mark.


    Top Watches That Stood Out

    Atelier Wen: Chinese Craft Meets Guilloché

    Close-up of a wrist wearing an Atelier Wen watch with a purple guilloché dial, set against a white background featuring the brand name Atelier.
    Atelier Wen’s stunning purple guilloché dial watch showcased the beauty of Eastern craftsmanship at the Windup Watch Fair.

    This Chinese microbrand delivered one of the most artistic dials at the fair. I tried on a model with a deeply etched, hand-carved guilloché dial in rich purple—a striking blend of Eastern artistry and mechanical credibility.

    Junghans Max Bill: Bauhaus Perfection

    A close-up of a wrist wearing a sleek, minimalist watch with a white face and black leather strap, next to a display of various watches with colorful straps and dials.
    The Junghans Max Bill watch, showcasing its minimalist elegance and Bauhaus-inspired design, perfectly displayed on the wrist.

    Clean lines, minimalist elegance, and timeless proportions made the Max Bill a joy to wear. My wife especially loved the Lady Max Bill, a pastel-toned variant that looked stunning on her wrist.

    Marathon GSAR: Military Grade with Tritium Power

    A close-up of a wrist wearing a black chronograph watch, displayed alongside various other watches on a table at the Windup Watch Fair.
    Showcasing the robust Marathon GSAR watch, a military-grade tool watch known for its luminescence and durability.

    Built like a tank and glowing for 25 years thanks to tritium tubes, the Marathon GSAR is a legit tool watch. No need to charge it under light—the lume just stays on.

    Straum Jan Mayen: Norwegian Nature on Your Wrist

    Two Straum watches displayed on a black leather strap, one with a textured silver dial and the other featuring a striking blue cracked-glass effect. Various branded patches are spread out underneath.
    Showcasing the unique designs of Straum watches, featuring textured dials inspired by nature.

    With dial textures inspired by volcanic landscapes and icy terrain, Straum’s Jan Mayen line brought poetic design to microbrand practicality.

    Formex: COSC-Certified Swiss Innovation

    Display of Formex Swiss made watches featuring various styles and designs on wooden stands.
    Formex Swiss-made watches showcasing robust designs and chronometer-certified movements at the Windup Watch Fair.

    Formex impressed with its robust yet lightweight designs and chronometer-certified movements. The build quality, comfort, and accuracy make this a dark horse among Swiss microbrands.

    Mühle Glashütte: Under-the-Radar German Excellence

    Display of Mühle Glashütte watches with various designs, colors, and styles showcased at the Windup Watch Fair.
    A showcase of Mühle Glashütte watches featuring a variety of styles from classic three-handers to nautical designs.

    This German heritage brand from Glashütte showcased an impressive variety—from clean three-handers to nautically inspired GMTs. It’s a brand more people should be talking about.

    Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph: Retro Cool

    A close-up of a person's wrist wearing a vintage-style chronograph watch with a black dial and silver mesh bracelet, surrounded by other watches on display in a watch fair setting.
    Showcasing the Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph with a classic panda dial at the Windup Watch Fair.

    Tried on a panda-dial version of this reissue. Classic 1960s vibes, two subdials, and just the right weight on the wrist.

    Baltic: Vintage Charm with Accessible Prices

    Three dive watches displayed on a grey surface, each featuring a black rubber strap. The left watch has a blue dial with white markers and hands, the center watch has a black dial with glowing markers, and the right watch has a black dial with white indices and a vintage design.
    A collection of Baltic’s vintage-inspired dive watches featuring black rubber straps and distinctive dials, showcasing their affordability and charm.

    Baltic’s vintage-inspired dive watches and pastel dials continue to punch above their price point. Easy recommendation for newcomers.


    Watches My Wife Loved

    My wife spent time trying on models that balanced personality with wearability. Here were her favorites:

    Lady Max Bill (Junghans): Soft pink dial, sleek Bauhaus simplicity

    A close-up view of a person's wrist wearing a Junghans Max Bill watch with a pastel pink dial and gray strap, set against a backdrop of various watch straps displayed on a table.
    The Junghans Lady Max Bill featuring a soft pink dial and sleek Bauhaus design, highlighted at the Windup Watch Fair.

    Meistersinger: Swiss-German watch with just one hand—a conversation starter

    Close-up of a hand wearing a minimalist watch with a light-colored dial and silver accents, surrounded by other watches on a display table at a watch fair.
    Showcasing the unique dial of the Meistersinger watch, featuring a single hand for a minimalist approach to timekeeping.

    March Lab: Art Deco aesthetic with a green octagonal dial, Parisian flair

    Close-up of a March Lab watch with a black octagonal dial and silver metal bracelet worn on a wrist.
    The March Lab watch features an octagonal design with a striking green dial, showcasing a blend of Art Deco aesthetics and modern craftsmanship.

    Oris Aquis Date: Bold pink dial diver, stylish yet serious

    A close-up of a pink Oris Aquis Date watch displayed on a wrist, featuring a stainless steel bracelet and a bold, vibrant dial.
    The Oris Aquis Date featuring a bold pink dial, showcased for its stylish yet serious design at the Windup Watch Fair.

    She loved the diversity in styles, proving again that the women’s mechanical watch space is finally becoming more exciting.


    Fireside Chat: Oris CEO & CD Peacock on ADs vs Grey Market

    Panel discussion during the Windup Watch Fair 2025 in Chicago featuring industry experts discussing the topic 'To AD or Not to AD'.
    A moderated discussion at the Windup Watch Fair focusing on the importance of Authorized Dealers in the watch industry.

    One of the most valuable experiences was attending a moderated talk between Oris Americas CEO, VJ Ceronimo and the VC of CD Peacock, Steve Holtzman, a prominent Chicago-based authorized dealer. The topic? Why buying from Authorized Dealers (ADs) still matters in 2025.

    Some key takeaways:

    “The AD is your first line of trust, service, and education,” said the VP of CD Peacock.

    “We’re not just selling watches, we’re selling heritage and responsibility,” added Rolf Studer.

    They discussed how ADs offer not just legitimacy but also continuity—warranty, service, and even future upgrade pathways. In contrast, the grey market often offers lower prices at the cost of trust, after-sale support, and authenticity.

    My View: ADs Are Worth It

    For any watch priced above $2,000 to $3,000, I firmly believe buying from an AD or the brand directly is the wiser route. You get the peace of mind, service support, and sometimes even community that makes ownership feel richer and more personal.


    Final Thoughts

    Windup Chicago 2025 was more than just a fair—it was a community event. Whether it was talking to founders, hearing industry insights, or seeing my wife light up trying on a new dial color, this fair captured the spirit of why we love watches.


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