This past weekend, my wife and I visited the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago—a vibrant celebration of horology just a few blocks from home. Hosted by Worn & Wound, the fair brought together a compelling mix of microbrands, heritage manufacturers, and industry insiders, offering an up-close look at what’s next in mechanical watchmaking.
From COSC-certified tool watches to hand-carved dials and one-handed designs, here are the watches and moments that left a mark.
Top Watches That Stood Out
Atelier Wen: Chinese Craft Meets Guilloché
This Chinese microbrand delivered one of the most artistic dials at the fair. I tried on a model with a deeply etched, hand-carved guilloché dial in rich purple—a striking blend of Eastern artistry and mechanical credibility.
Junghans Max Bill: Bauhaus Perfection
Clean lines, minimalist elegance, and timeless proportions made the Max Bill a joy to wear. My wife especially loved the Lady Max Bill, a pastel-toned variant that looked stunning on her wrist.
Marathon GSAR: Military Grade with Tritium Power
Built like a tank and glowing for 25 years thanks to tritium tubes, the Marathon GSAR is a legit tool watch. No need to charge it under light—the lume just stays on.
Straum Jan Mayen: Norwegian Nature on Your Wrist
With dial textures inspired by volcanic landscapes and icy terrain, Straum’s Jan Mayen line brought poetic design to microbrand practicality.
Formex: COSC-Certified Swiss Innovation
Formex impressed with its robust yet lightweight designs and chronometer-certified movements. The build quality, comfort, and accuracy make this a dark horse among Swiss microbrands.
Mühle Glashütte: Under-the-Radar German Excellence
This German heritage brand from Glashütte showcased an impressive variety—from clean three-handers to nautically inspired GMTs. It’s a brand more people should be talking about.
Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph: Retro Cool
Tried on a panda-dial version of this reissue. Classic 1960s vibes, two subdials, and just the right weight on the wrist.
Baltic: Vintage Charm with Accessible Prices
Baltic’s vintage-inspired dive watches and pastel dials continue to punch above their price point. Easy recommendation for newcomers.
Watches My Wife Loved
My wife spent time trying on models that balanced personality with wearability. Here were her favorites:
Lady Max Bill (Junghans): Soft pink dial, sleek Bauhaus simplicity
Meistersinger: Swiss-German watch with just one hand—a conversation starter
March Lab: Art Deco aesthetic with a green octagonal dial, Parisian flair
Oris Aquis Date: Bold pink dial diver, stylish yet serious
She loved the diversity in styles, proving again that the women’s mechanical watch space is finally becoming more exciting.
Fireside Chat: Oris CEO & CD Peacock on ADs vs Grey Market
One of the most valuable experiences was attending a moderated talk between Oris Americas CEO, VJ Ceronimo and the VC of CD Peacock, Steve Holtzman, a prominent Chicago-based authorized dealer. The topic? Why buying from Authorized Dealers (ADs) still matters in 2025.
Some key takeaways:
“The AD is your first line of trust, service, and education,” said the VP of CD Peacock.
“We’re not just selling watches, we’re selling heritage and responsibility,” added Rolf Studer.
They discussed how ADs offer not just legitimacy but also continuity—warranty, service, and even future upgrade pathways. In contrast, the grey market often offers lower prices at the cost of trust, after-sale support, and authenticity.
My View: ADs Are Worth It
For any watch priced above $2,000 to $3,000, I firmly believe buying from an AD or the brand directly is the wiser route. You get the peace of mind, service support, and sometimes even community that makes ownership feel richer and more personal.
Final Thoughts
Windup Chicago 2025 was more than just a fair—it was a community event. Whether it was talking to founders, hearing industry insights, or seeing my wife light up trying on a new dial color, this fair captured the spirit of why we love watches.
Mechanical Minutes 